Favourite Outfits From 'House of Gucci' and How They Drive the Narrative

Director Ridley Scott's latest cinematic offering is the fashion spectacular 'House of Gucci'. It is the story of the murder of Maurizio Gucci in the 1990s by his wife, Patrizia Reggiani, a woman from humble beginnings who marries into the famous Gucci family. The movie takes the angle of her unbridled ambition which begins to unravel the family legacy and triggers a reckless spiral of betrayal, decadence, revenge -- and ultimately mariticide. As this is the story of the family Gucci, it's no surprise that the film is a fashion catwalk from beginning to end awash with 80s and 90s Italian style - from the outright gaudy to the classic. Costume Designer, Janty Yates, had unprecedented access to the Gucci archives, but the movie is much more than a Gucci showcase. Pieces from Valentino, YSL, Ungaro, Alaia, Cesare Attolini, Lady Gaga's (who plays the scheming Reggiani) own pieces as well as her own designs all weave their way into the movies narrative, defining key moments and speaking volumes where words do not suffice. Here I pick some of my favourite outfits from the movie.

Maurizio Gucci in a polo-neck and blazer

Unfortunate protagonist and heir to the Gucci throne Maurizio Gucci is the straight man of the movie, and the fashion antagonist to his wife's often gaudy wardrobe. When romancing working class girl Patrizia at the beginning of the movie, posh-boy Maurizio, takes his future wife on a boat ride, wearing a totally unsuitable for the occasion, but very classy, polo neck and blazer. It might be a look that in recent years has been hijacked by the Only Way Is Essex boys - who love the polo-neck's unforgiving nature and stretch, in order to show off their 3 x a day gym workouts, but it's a look that's been going strong since the 60s. Maurizio's version of the combo is a bulkier version of the sweater in cream, and he wears it with a classic navy jacket with gold buttons.

Patrizia Gucci nee Reggiani at Aldo's ranch

On marrying into the Gucci family, Patricia is invited to uncle Aldo's ranch to meet the family's prized cows which are turned into the leather goods that make the Gucci clan's fortune. In a perfect example in how to dress for the occasion, Patricia opts for a beautiful sky blue shirt dress with full skirt and laser cut, scalloped hem. The gorgeous dress is cinched in at the waist with a tan leather belt and she accessorises with cowgirl style boots and a matching bag. Her up-do and make-up are pure Sophia Loren. This is probably my favourite outfit in the movie for it's simplicity and the beautiful shape of the dress. Gorgeous.

Paolo Gucci in his bird kimono

Comedic relief is provided by the flamboyant nephew, Paolo Gucci, whose bombast and grand plans to become a world renowned fashion designer are unfortunately not matched by the Gucci talent. Duped by the scheming Patricia and his cousin Maurizio who has fallen under Patrizia's spell, Paolo plots with Maurizio in a phone conversation to reveal his father's tax fraud in order to force his father to finally take him seriously. 'I could finally soar' Paolo exudes, 'like a pigeon'. The next scene cuts to Paolo tending his pigeons on the roof in the most beautiful orange and cream silk kimono with bird pattern. We then see Paolo on the phone to his father, decrying his need for freedom and how he will no longer be held back - all the while wearing his kimono with the flying birds.

Aldo Gucci in his squash whites

When Aldo is arrested at the gym whilst playing squash, he is of course, not in one of his power suits, but an all white gym outfit. The crisp white Lacoste polo shirt with matching white sweatbands for the wrist and head and his eye goggles, have something of the Richie Tenenbaum about them. Aldo is all in white as he is the proverbial lamb to the slaughter. As he is marched out of the gym by the FBI, it is they, not he who are in the power suits he normally favours. He does however, wear the coolest retro velour Fila zip up tracksuit top in red/navy. If you're going to have a very public arrest, make sure you're dressed your best for those pap snaps.

Maurizio Gucci in predatorial black Lacoste

After Aldo's arrest, we cut to the guilty duo -  Paolo and Maurizio who have just thrown their father\Uncle in prison. Maurizio, the instigator of the betrayal, is wearing a black version of his Uncle's white Lacoste polo shirt, reminding us who is predator and prey, although Maurizio wears his black polo shirt with classic chinos indicating he is still a geek at heart. Would he have made such machinations against his Uncle without Patrizia whispering in his ear? The suggestion is no. He is still the clean cut lawyer underneath it all, but the black to Aldo's white suggests he has, albeit temporarily, been turned over to the dark side.

Paolo Gucci, the deluded clown

When Paolo staggers down the Gucci runway, aghast at his father's sentencing, his outfit is a mish-mash of fantastical colours and patterns. He wears a black and green suit with a pink shirt and beige pattern tie and tops it all off with an orange flower in his lapel. It's a masterclass in clashing colours - a ridiculous outfits that somehow works. There is no way Paolo would have plotted against his father were he not persuaded by Maurizio, who in turn was convinced by Patrizia. The suggestion is Paolo, the clown, in his ridiculous outfits, is just not bright enough to plot against his own family to get what he wants, nor is he hateful enough. It slowly becomes clear, that the Gucci family are collapsing from within, and all roads lead back to Patrizia.  

Patrizia hits the ski slopes in prophetic blood-red

When Patrizia, Maurizio and Maurizio's soon to be lover (Paola Franchi) all meet up on the ski slopes as the strained couple holiday with Maurizio's upper class friends, the ski outfits the two female adversaries are wearing are an indicator of the power play going on on the slopes.

The top-to-toe blood-red outfit Patrizia wears, is not only a power move on her part, but also an indicator of the bloodshed to come. From the animal pelt hat on her head, to the brilliant red skintight jumpsuit she wears, Patrizia looks like she is wearing raw meat (Gaga's meat dress?) - this is not a woman to be messed with, and she gives this warning to Paola literally through her words, and figuratively through her chosen clothes.When we compare Patrizia's OTT ensemble, from her gaudy jewels to the red of the ski-suit and the fur, on her head, and contrast it with the snow white outfit, simple jewels and make up free face, of Maurizio's mistress, the opposing outfits speak volumes. Not only is Paula no match to the dangerous 'woman in red - she is - in her sacrificial white - another lamb to the slaughter, or at the very least, another hapless victim Patrizia will not allow to get in her way.

Paolo's decline

After realising he is responsible for his father's jailing 'It wasn't meant to go this far!', we next see the tragic Paolo Gucci as his father is released from jail, no longer living a life of luxury, but instead in a small flat, cluttered with dirty dishes and Paolo clearly in a state of mental decline. No longer dressing in the gaudy but expensive suits he has designed for himself (in fact all of Jared Leto's suits bar one in the movie were the work of famed Neapolitan tailors Cesare Attolini) but instead we see him bedecked in gaudy shell suits. Again, the clothes in the movie are indicators of a character's mental state. Here, the choice of outfit indicate Paolo's life, wealth and mental stability have all taken a massive downturn. When father and son finally reunite and reconcile, father Aldo, hugs his son and tells him 'You are an idiot, but you are my idiot.' Poor Paolo is the family fool. And his clown clothes reflect this.   

The lover

When Maurizio's new lover, Paola, is at his swanky new apartment it is now the 90s and Patrizia, along with her gaudy 80s outfits and tacky grandiosity are clearly a thing of the past. Paola is presented to us as a 90s  It-girl - uptown to Patrizia's downtown. Her style is all clean lines, understated (but still expensive) jewellery, tasteful make up and hair. Her slinky black dresses and blond blow out contrast sharply with Patrizia's dark bouffant and heavy 80s aesthetic. Even her make up is in stark contrast to Patrizia's - there is no kohl or sexy winged liner and Dynasty red lips. Paola is all about the no-make-up make up look. 

Paola's look in the movie is reminiscent of another tragic 90s female figure -  Jacqueline Bessette-Kennedy, who worked at and was muse to Calvin Klein and whose understated elegance inspired a legion of fans who coveted her and what they presumed was her privileged lifestyle. 

The couch

A special mention goes out to the red lips love seat. The couch that Maurizio jokes 'cost more than most people's apartment in Monte Carlo' and that Paola ought to be 'a little scared' of - shows a new side to Maurizio. He is no longer inexperienced and afraid of women as he was when he first met Patrizia at the beginning of the film - he is no longer the frightened wallflower. In fact, perhaps Patrizia has left a little bit of a mark on her ex-husband. No longer afraid of, or intimidated by his wealth or name as he was at the beginning of the film, here we see a more confident Maurizio. He is unafraid to spend his money (partly gained let's not forget, through the duplicity and help of Patrizia).  

Patrizia plots mariticide

While Maurizio and his new lover are spending the 90s living like minor royalty in their swanky upmarket apartment, we see Patrizia, in full-on revenge mode, knocking around on the wrong side of town. Maurizio may be ridiculously wealthy and may have got his hands a little dirty to get where he is, but the suggestion is that he is no Patrizia. When we next see Patrizia, she is with her gypsy friend and psychic, (played by Salma Hayek). They are both kitted out in skintight jeans and high heeled boots. Patricia wears a tough biker jacket and hasn't seemed to have adapted to the new decade and it's less ostentatious aesthetic. Her hair and make up still scream 80s and her outfit errs on the trashy side. This is the outfit she wears to negotiate with the hitmen she hires to murder her ex husband. Patrizia is a tough cookie from a poor background - certainly not afraid of the hitmen. She is a woman who  has clawed and fought her way up the social ladder and isn't willing to let go of what she has achieved without a fight. Even a Gucci with newly found confidence and years of generational wealth behind him is no match for the Patrizia's of the world. 

Conclusion

My ultimate view of the movie? The fashions are great, but ultimately, it's a two-dimensional, misogynistic and hackneyed portrayal of a woman who sees herself as having lost everything she has worked for. The 'crazy ex wife kills her husband and manages to single-handedly bring down the men of the Gucci clan, but ultimately destroys herself' reminds us of that other 80s 'crazy jealous woman trope  - Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction. It's a shame we never saw more from Patrizia's character than that of an unhinged gold-digger. Maybe there isn't more to her character? But one can't help but feel a little dissatisfied at Hollywood somehow blaming a woman for every man in an entire clan's downfall, and yet still not managing to flesh her out as a fully-fledged, rounded human being. Who was Patrizia Reggiani? You won't find out from watching 'House of Gucci'.

Clothes 8/10

Movie 5/10

Part 2: Dressed to Kill: The Best Looks From 'House of Gucci'.

 Last week saw Part 1 of the best looks from Ridley Scott's much anticipated release of 'House of Gucci'. The film stars Lady Gaga and Adam Driver as Patrizia and Maurizio Gucci, the husband murdered by his wife set in the glamorous world of 80s high end fashion. The film is, as to be expected considering the subject matter, a luxury fashion feast. Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri reportedly gave the movie’s production team “total creative freedom” when constructing the costumes. From sea blue sequin halterneck disco jumpsuits to that chunky cream fisherman's turtleneck sweater worn on the ski slopes, I've rounded up the best fashion moments from the movie. 

8) In Head-to-Toe Gucci in NYC

Besides a belt here and a scarf there, this is the first time we see Patrizia leaning in to the Gucci logo. We also rarely see her wearing trousers unless she’s at home in jeans, so this tunic-and-trouser moment is particularly special. Styled with a brown fur coat, leather gloves and the iconic Jackie bag (named after First Lady Jackie Kennedy), she looks every bit the kind of woman ready to take over Gucci, one way or another.

From the staple bag that draws on the Italian fashion houses’ red and green colour palette to the fur coat effortlessly placed on Patrizia's scheming shoulders, this is one of the most resonant fashion moments in House of Gucci thus far. Gaga’s Reggiani truly comes into her own, embracing the Gucci name and its monogrammed pieces. In this outfit, Reggiani worships at the altar of the renowned brand.

 It is in this outfit that she discovers the world of fakes. She is shocked to discover that her housekeeper is carrying a Gucci bamboo handle knock-off. As Patrizia wanders from Olympic Tower down to Canal Street to see the dupes in person, her full-on logomania further enhances the disconnect, as well as the nearly indiscernible likeness between real and faux. (Or "replicas," as Aldo dismisses the issue.)

According to Yates, the outfit's purpose was "Basically LG's philosophy — and I completely agreed with her — was that she should be wearing the original Gucci logo in order to show up the cheapness of the mugs, the ugliness of the belts," says Yates. "The whole thing was just a raw juxtaposition." 

9) In Pink & Black Polka Dots

Patrizia's pink and black polka dot Yves Saint Laurent dress, mined from luxury vintage house Tirelli Costume in Rome, (above), which she wears to meet and manipulate the eccentric Paolo Gucci in his own atelier. The Lollobrigida style 80s dress was also selected method-style for the scene, in which Gaga also ad-libs the now-famous line: "Father, son and house of Gucci."  

"She just took it off the rail and just said, 'This is what I'm going to see Paolo in,'" says Yates, who accessorised it with a double-G logo belt.

This is a silhouette we see Patrizia in often: Long sleeves, strong shoulders and a pencil skirt or fitted dress. It’s a pretty standard look for the time period, but she makes it her own with cleavage-baring necklines, belts (like this Gucci one) to cinch her waist, bold patterns and of course, lots of flashy jewellery. Out of all the looks I loved, this one could be argued as the most classically Patrizia. Ridley Scott said he did not want to go down the Dynasty route with the outfits. However, the outfit works in this scene as Patrizia is sneaking into Paolo's atelier to convince him to go ahead with his collection. It directly mirrors Paolo's own gaudiness, highlighting the lengths Patrizia is willing to go to get what she wants - even putting on an act to convince her husband's cousin. Patricia is a master manipulator - down to the finest detail.

10) In Purple With a Mink Stole

Reggiani famously once said “It is better to cry in a Rolls-Royce than be happy on a bicycle,” and this is a sentiment Gaga embodies in her vintage get-up. Dressed in a bold purple dress that boasts a hand-painted effect, Gaga embodied the glamour of the 80s as she filmed this scene with her on screen husband Maurizio and his cousin Paolo in the streets of Rome. The garment was brought to new levels of luxury, thanks to the added Gucci accessories consisting of a navy silk scarf, which Patrizia gracefully drapes over her head, and a pebbled black leather bag emblazoned with the old Gucci logo. Ever the maximalist, Reggiani needed another material—so the look was topped with a mink fur covering for an added touch of elegance.

The outfit has an extra layer of meaning however. In this scene, Maurizio’s cousin, Paolo, confronts the not-so-happy couple about their wrongdoings - namely Patricia and Maurizio's plan to oust the rest of the Gucci's from the family business. When the betrayal is at last revealed, the familial confrontation is a melodramatic display of feeble masculinity bending to feminine strength. While Maurizio looks distressed, Patrizia looks glamorous as ever. After securing her position at the top of the Gucci empire alongside her husband, Patrizia appears to us and Paolo as a (somewhat wicked) queen in regal purple, a colour long associated with nobility and royal exclusivity. Along with her sky-high stilettos and a luscious mink stole, the look further reinforces that in terms of control, he is out and she is in.  

 11) In Flaming Hot Ski Attire in St. Moritz

This was another red-hot St. Moritz moment, featuring a skin-tight ski suit and matching Christian Dior red goggles. Of course, still accessorised to the hilt with fur and some lavish gemstone earrings. In this scene, Patrizia is trying her best to intimidate Maurizio’s past schoolmate and new mistress Paola,  and her fiery red outfit and dramatic glamour are intended to be in direct contrast to Paola’s no-makeup makeup and breezy blonde looks. It is here that she mutters the immortal line while sipping espresso, 'I don't consider myself to be a particularly ethical person, but I am fair.'

The line between glam and gaudy is a fine one however. Compared to Maurizio's new lover, Patrizia is a fire engine of gaudy fashions piled on top of a jealous attitude. While Gaga does look spectacular in the red ski suit, there's a whiff of desperation to the costume. Throughout the movie, no matter how opulent her sartorial choices may be, Patrizia always wears her clothes and not the other way around. In this instance, though, her ski outfit overwhelms Maurizio's soon-to-be ex-wife – a sad reflection of spousal rejection and emotional discomfort.

12) Paolo Gucci in Pink

Paolo Gucci is portrayed as a somewhat comically tragic figure in House of Gucci and his gloriously tasteless suits reflect this. His costumes are in the film are made by the Attolini Brothers. In the above scene Patricia plots up at his atelier in an attempt to convince him to go ahead with his own collection. She matches his own gaudiness with her own, in pink Alexis Colby polka dots. 

Of all the Gucci men, it is Paolo who gets to wear all the colour. According to production crew member Marco Alzari, 'The crazy colours were all for Paolo because he was kind of the funky person in the family. And the most conservative colours were for the Gucci gentlemen: Maurizio, Aldo and Rodolfo, because they were the stone parts of the family. Janty had all classical suits made for them, and all those colours were opposite in colour to Paolo.' Paolo's suits are so extreme, his other pink suit is also worth a mention. The pink elephant corduroy suit was designed by Yates herself as the wait from Naples for the Atolini Brothers suits required some interim action on her part.

'I asked Costume del Arte to make a couple in the interim, which Jared could wear early on. I asked them for a pink elephant cord Norfolk jacket, which he ended up wearing quite prominently! So it's actually a suit of my design, I'm afraid to say!” 

“We went very over the top with Jared's wardrobe. His character Paolo was one of the worst dressed men I’d ever googled, he’d wear silver lurex shirts under his tuxedo! The looks are really appalling, the Atollini Crothers told me that he is ‘the dandy’s dandy’, as a result, Jared Leto gets some of the most fun outfits in the movie.

13) Turtleneck and Blazer (On Point Like a Laser ref. (@yourpal_austin) and That Burberry Trench

 Ah, the eponymous turtleneck and blazer, beautifully committed to a song that went viral on Tiktok this year by @yourpal_austin. The man from the Milk Tray ads, James Bond, Mark Wright (ok strike the last one) all fond purveyors of the look that is so cheesy that it's gone full circle and become hipster cool. It's in a turtleneck and blazer that Adam Driver evokes the suave sophistication of the Gucci heir when walking to meet his beloved in Lake Como, Italy. The navy jacket, decorated with gold buttons (not seen in the above photo), symbolise the inherent elegance of Maurizio Gucci as they reflect the summer light in the Italian town. Paired with a rectangular timepiece of the same bright hue, it’s clear that Driver is well-suited (literally) and booted for the part of the Gucci golden boy as he sweeps Patrizia off her feet (again literally).

Patrizia is no fashion-slouch in the scene either. She wears a Burberry trench coat - suggested by Gaga, and paired with some rather conservative Gucci heeled loafers. The look is meant to highlight her innocence and naivety at the beginning, according to Yates.Although the mac is a gorgeous piece, it's what she's hiding underneath it that's interesting. Her micro mini dress which reveals her backside as she bends over to kiss her date, suggests that what's underneath might not be so innocent after all.

The Best Looks From Ridley Scott's 'House of Gucci'.

 The real standout stars of Ridley Scott's new high fashion epic, House of Gucci, are - somewhat unsurprisingly - the clothes. The fashion world has been chomping at the (Gucci horse) bit to check out Lady Gaga and Adam Driver's wardrobe, and they do not disappoint. Highlights include Gaga's multiple turns in cleavage-baring Saint Laurent skirt suits to Driver's cable-knit apres ski jumper that broke the internet when it was released to the world in a promo shot. Even side characters have caused a stir - Jared Leto's elephant cord Norfolk two pieces in candied shades of magenta and cobalt was an instant hit with lovers of vintage and loud. The woman behind the magic is celebrated costume designer Janty Yates, of Gladiator, American Gangster, and The Martian fame. Here I narrow down my favourite looks from the movie to my top 12 - no mean feat considering Lady Gaga alone had approximately 65 costume changes - and both she and her on screen husband insisted on 'no repeats.' In no particular order:

1| Paolo Gucci's Blue Check Suit

Yates told GQ magazine “We had the Atollini Brothers make something like 12 suits and jackets for Jared Leto, who plays Paolo Gucci in the film. They were all very, in their words ‘dandy dandy’. The Atollini Brothers made all the suits for Paolo Sorrentino's 2013 film The Great Beauty, which is one of the most wonderfully tailored films I’ve ever seen. The problem was, we had to wait for the suits, because the brothers handmake everything in Naples, so I asked Costume del Arte to make a couple in the interim, which Jared could wear early on. I asked them for a pink elephant cord Norfolk jacket, which he ended up wearing quite prominently! So it's actually a suit of my design, I'm afraid to say!”

“We went very over the top with Jared's wardrobe. His character Paolo was one of the worst dressed men I’d ever googled, he’d wear silver lurex shirts under his tuxedo! The looks are really appalling, the Atollini Crothers told me that he is ‘the dandy’s dandy’, so we went for horizontal stripes, stripes, big blooming ties, and massive checks. The blue check suit when he gives his fashion show is a good example of how over-the-top we went.”

2) Black and White, Patrizia and Maurzio Hit the Slopes

“This was the first photo released from our shoot, and the response was extraordinary.  The Arran sweater has its own website and Instagram! People dressed up like this photo for Halloween! It’s quite amazing. We had 10 different sweaters, and we tried them all on Adam Driver, who plays Maurizo Gucci. This particular one fit him best. We never intended to have it on show that much, but when he was entertaining friends, Ridley liked the idea of the suit being wrapped around his waist and the jumper being visible. 

"Ridley said he also wanted both Maurizio and Paola Franchi (the woman Maurizio eventually leaves Patrizia for) to be wearing white when they run into each other on the slopes. The idea was that they would see each other and say ‘oh you’re wearing white too!’ - kind of like an ice breaker.  Then Patrizia comes bowling along in red. it just makes me laugh the way she walk in her boots, she’s just fabulous, very funny. Lady Gaga, who plays Patrizia, is also wearing a black Gucci jacket with gold buttons in this picture.”

Here, Gaga is pictured in an iconic all-black look, which isn't too far off from fashion's contemporary style. However, the ridiculous amount of jewels and fur Cossack mink hat show Patrizia wasn't on the slopes to ski. The all black further suggests Gaga's character was perhaps already thinking evil thoughts.

3)  Patrizia's Jewellery is a Character of It's Own. 

Even before she marries into the upper echelons of Italian society, she pairs almost every single outfit with over-the-top earrings and a statement necklace. Given that her family isn’t rich, we can assume that the first few times we see her all glammed up she is wearing cheap costume jewelry—but once she’s got Gucci’s family money in her pockets, it’s safe to say the gem-encrusted chokers, diamond earrings and gold chains are all real. Or, at the very least, really expensive.

One could argue her maximalist accessorising was simply the norm for women of the era, but it appears  that Patrizia wore her jewelelry as armour. “She [Patrizia] wore a huge amount of jewellery and LG was up for that. She'd always put on two necklaces when one wasn't enough, she'd wear four bangles, and the biggest earrings she could find,” In fact, I only remember seeing her without earrings in two scenes in the film: When she briefly mourns Maurizio’s death alone, she is without her earrings. When she is back in her element just a scene later, reclaiming her home and kicking out his lover, the earrings are back on.

The second and final time we see her with no earrings, Patrizia is at her court hearing, where she receives a 26-year prison sentence. In this scene, she is not in control, and her lack of accessories illustrates as much. Had she shown up to court with her biggest pearls or glitziest studs on, one might’ve thought she’d get away with her crime.

4) Patrizia's Blue Sequin Halterneck She Wears to Go Dancing at Studio 54

One of my favourite looks didn't make it to the actual final cut, but I'm going to mention it anyway. Patrizia piled on the accessories and sequins to go dancing with Al Pacino's 'Aldo' character at Studio 54. Known as an iconic Manhattan hotspot where only the best-dressed could get in, Patrizia held her own with the city slickers courtesy of a sequined turquoise halter number and a ton of Bulgari gold necklaces, chunky bracelets, dangling earrings and glitzy make up to match. It's in the trailer, but alas cut from the film. Perhaps Ridley Scott will do a director's cut and we can see it in all its glory.

5) In Red as Elizabeth Taylor at a Costume Party

Can it get more meta than Lady Gaga in costume as Patrizia Reggiani, in costume as Elizabeth Taylor? This red dress was seriously va va room, and all the better when accessorised with Patrizia’s diamond and gem-encrusted necklace and matching earrings. The black gloves really set off the look  - and were part of Patrizia's original ensemble. When she approached Maurizio, he was bowled over. The dress was inspired by a late 70s Yves Saint Laurent piece that Reggiani wore to another party. The actual dress was bubblegum pink, which Yates switched to a blood red, hinting at what was to come and yet again using colour as a storytelling device.

6) In Her Wedding Gown

Patrizia Gucci’s 1973 wedding gown was quite a bit more modest than then iteration Gaga wears in the film. Throughout the movie, both Reggiani's and Gucci’s outfits have been nearly identical to the ones donned by the couple in the ’80s and ’90s. But on their wedding day, that pattern changes. For her original wedding dress, Reggiani opted for a more conservative, less-decorated gown, comprised of a high-neck, a low hem, and a tapered waist. Whereas here, Gaga can still be seen wearing a white lace dress with a high-low hem and a sweetheart neckline. Conversely, Driver remained consistent with Mr. Gucci’s original getup, wearing a pair of pinstripe trousers and a tailcoat blazer for a dapper look.

Still, the slightly more dramatic take did some storytelling for the viewers, in that it showcased just how far Patrizia was from fitting in with the Guccis in terms of taste.

7) In White Lace at a Birthday Party

Patrizia is from a family of modest means far outside the Gucci sphere, so her ensemble at Aldo Gucci's (portrayed by Al Pacino) Lake Como birthday party is striving for their approval. The “gorgeous fitting” white lace dress and bolero are based on an iconic image of Lollobrigida and it was kismet when Yates’ buyer “happened to find more or less the exact lace” of the original La Lollo look. 

According to Yates, Lady Gaga drew inspiration from even closer to home, suggesting she wanted to dress like her mother. 'It was wonderful because, obviously, her mother didn't wear [wacky] dresses, and her mother is 100 percent Italian.”

Patrizia chooses demure white to meet the family in a clear bid to impress them but also to show her intentions are pure. She's presenting herself as a good Italian girl - the perfect wife and hinting at the wedding to come. 

A famous '50s image of La Lollo also directly inspired the white lace strapless dress and bolero set (above) that Patrizia wears to uncle Aldo's 70th birthday party at his Lake Como house — "a '60s sort of mood, but in a late '70s design," says Yates about her interpretation of Lollobrigida's ensemble. Costume cutter Dominic Young built the look and painstakingly hand-applied each piece of lace to complete the near-3D design that jumps off the screen.

Part 2 Next week

Five things you didn't know about Gucci Heiress, Patrizia Reggiani

 Filming for Ridley Scott’s House of Gucci biopic is finally underway in Italy, and dear God the photographs are glorious: Lady Gaga and Adam Driver in a ski chalet in the Alps; Lady Gaga feeding Adam Driver a pastry the size of an Olympic discus; Lady Gaga and Adam Driver ducking into a vintage Fiat. In case you somehow missed the buzz, Scott’s drama will revisit the case of Patrizia Reggiani, who tasked a hitman with murdering her ex-husband, Gucci heir Maurizio Gucci, in 1995, after he abandoned her for his younger lover – but not before their ultra glamorous lifestyle had made the couple world-famous. In honour of Gaga’s transformation into the so-called Black Widow, Vogue revisits the most outrageous stories about the convicted murderess through the years.

1

Even in the generally flashy ’70s, the Guccis’ lavishness made headlines. Following their marriage in 1973, the pair regularly decamped to their chalet in St Moritz, their 9,000-square-foot 5th Avenue penthouse in Manhattan’s Olympic Tower, or their 64-metre-long wooden yacht, The Creole. That’s before mentioning their villa in Acapulco, Mexico, their farm in rural Connecticut, or their various private islands dotted around the world. The license plates on their innumerable cars read “Mauizia” – the original couple name – while Patrizia spent more than £8,000 a month on orchids alone. Then there were the themed “colour” parties that she regularly held for her glittering circle, which included the Kennedys, where the clothes, décor, and food were all of a single hue – orange being her favourite.

2

After her conviction for her role in Maurizio’s murder, Patrizia received a 29-year prison sentence. “I slept a lot,” she told The Guardian of her incarceration. “I took care of my plants. I looked after Bambi, my pet ferret.” According to Reggiani, her lawyer negotiated her right to have Bambi with her in her cell, a special privilege. This ultimately proved less than ideal for the ferret, who died after one of her fellow inmates sat on him. Fortunately (or not), she seems to have found another animal companion. Almost immediately after leaving prison in 2016, she headed to Milan’s equivalent of Bond Street, Via Monte Napoleone, wearing dark sunglasses and lashings of gold jewellery, while a pet macaw perched on her shoulder. She can still be spotted around the city’s more upscale neighbourhoods with the parrot most weekends.

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How to style Gucci's GG belt 3 different ways

 If there's one brand that has been inescapable over the past few years it's been Gucci. Since 2015, under the creative direction of Alessandro Michele, the brand has become one of the hottest fashion houses around. Thanks to Alessandro's exciting and fresh vision countless other designers and high street brands have followed the "edgy grandma from the '70s" trend. But the real crux of the fashion house's success lies in its accessibility. While some opt to wear the brand sunglasses-to-platforms, others can easily dip their toe in with a bag or a pair of shoes. But one of the easiest ways to get the Gucci look? Wear one of the now-iconic double G belts.

It has a cool but goes-with-everything-in-your-wardrobe appeal that makes it a must for both die-hard fashion lovers and your mum. To keep it interesting, the brand has re-imagined the GG belts in different ways—from the classic black, brown and white offerings to more embellished styles that will sate the more flamboyant dressers' fashion appetites.

Initially, the Gucci belts were debuted by Michele back in 2015, paired wth matching jackets or on low-slung trousers. But then there were more interesting outfits including a metallic green suit with one of the now-classic brown GG belts around the waistband of the trousers. A combo that still looks good even five years later—not an easy feat when contending with fashion's constantly changing trends. 

Street stylers were also quick to wear the belt too. I've personally lost count the amount of times I've seen it being worn when out and about at fashion weeks. To prove just how easy they are to wear, I've styled the belts—one thin, medium, and thick in different ways to prove just how versatile these belts are. Keep scrolling for how to wear this cult item and then shop my edit of the best Gucci GG belts below. 

The Thin

Style Notes: My personal preference for styling a thin belt is to wrap it over a chunky knit. I love the contrast between something heavy and something lighter. 

The Medium

Style Notes: The medium-sized belts from Gucci are often seen worn with jeans. And I'm definitely all for that as an everyday kind of look. But if you want to make it feel a little more fun? Add it to your favourite dress. While I've opted to colour match with a white belt and white dress, there's no reason why you couldn't make it a black belt and clash it with a floral dress. 

The Thick

Style Notes: I've seen a lot of street stylers wearing theirs cinched around a blazer, and I wanted to see if it was as good for me. Spoiler: It was. Ideal for if you love an oversize blazer but don't want to feel drowned in it. 

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Burberry's noose hoodie is part of a shameful fashion tradition

Burberry's noose hoodie was called out by a model on Instagram

A year ago Gucci put an offensive jumper on their Milan catwalk, although it took that long to actually cause offence.

The wool balaclava jumper was black with a cut-out mouth and red lips which, when pulled up over the wearer’s face, bore a disturbing resemblance to blackface. At the time, no one seemed to notice. I missed it too, and I missed it again when it went on sale last autumn, both of which now seem inexcusable – looking at it, it couldn’t be anything else. Yet it wasn’t until February this year that flags were raised – on Twitter, as is often the case these days – and even then only within the context of Black History Month. Gucci apologised, and took the jumpers off the shelves, even though they had already sat there for a good six months.

Of all the trends to dominate the past season, racist blunders like this seem to be one of fashion’s most prevalent. I can’t remember the last time I woke up to a day free of them. Just last week, Burberry had us screaming into our sleeves at the sight of a hoodie with strings tied in the shape of a noose, while in December, Prada was accused of racism for its Pradamalia creatures (more blackface).

As with Gucci, both events ended with the same sorry carousel whirring into action: outcry, response and some form of action, be it the removal of said item (Gucci) or creation of an “advisory council on diversity issues” (Prada). Asking why this keep happening feels a bit like bolting the horse, not least because of how efficiently this carousel works. Yet it needs to be asked, not least because it’s been happening for ever. In my career in fashion alone, I can remember Valentino put cornrows on the catwalk in 2015, when Marc Jacobs did the same with dreadlocks in 2016, and in the same year Dolce & Gabbana launched a pair of “slave sandals” in its spring/summer collection.

Diversity in fashion has been a hot topic for the past few years, and one that tends to focus on how its image is projected to the outside world. Translated, this means that the catwalks are generally more diverse than ever – not simply in terms of race but gender too – and that there are more black cover stars on magazines. The editor of British Vogue is black (Edward Enninful), as is the biggest menswear designer in the world (Virgil Abloh of Louis Vuitton).


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From H&M's 'Coolest Monkey' hoodie to Gucci's 'blackface' jumper - can fashion brands learn from their mistakes?

H&M's 'Coolest Monkey' hoodie

It’s been just over a year since H&M apologised for an advertising image featuring a black boy modelling a hoodie with the slogan “Coolest Monkey in the Jungle”. The Swedish brand issued the following statement at the time: “We have got this wrong and we agree that, even if unintentional, passive or casual racism needs to be eradicated wherever it exists.” Shortly after, the company appointed its first ever global leader for diversity and inclusiveness, Annie Wu.

At the time of the scandal, Wu was H&M’s global manager for employee relations.Born in Taiwan and raised in New York, how did she feel about the Coolest Monkey hoodie? “I think for all of us it was more shock, like everyone else: how could that happen? But then also, how do we then tell the world that this is not who we are, and that it was completely a mistake?”

Gucci's 'blackface' jumper

The demand for a more transparent fashion industry is making it very difficult for brands to make these “mistakes”. It’s not just H&M – Zara, too, has courted controversy in recent years after selling items emblazoned with Pepe the Frog and swastikas, among other missteps. It’s not just the high street either: luxury brands Prada, Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana have all had high-profile incidents where, between them, they have managed to alienate more than half the world’s population. Most recently, Gucci apologised for its polo neck jumper and balaclava combo, featuring a cut-out around the mouth outlined with thick red lips that was labelled “Blackface”. “Balaclava knit top by Gucci. Happy Black History Month y’all,” wrote Twitter-user Rashida. It took 10 hours for Gucci to respond, also on Twitter: “We are fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organisation and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond,” read their statement. “If you hire more black people and cultivate an environment where people on all levels of the company feel comfortable to speak up, incidents like this will be avoided,” commented The Glowboss (@VanessaVeasley).

H&M's 'Unemployed' hoodie

But the Coolest Monkey incident was not the first time H&M offended. In November 2017, the company sold a T-shirt with the slogan “Unemployed” on it, which was quickly withdrawn. While Wu agrees that H&M has a “global responsibility” as an employer, she says: “We are still a fashion company, so we do want to push the envelope a little bit to catch these trends and things that still happen.”

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Gucci apologises for jumper that sparked 'blackface' backlash

Gucci has apologised over a jumper that prompted social media backlash when users complained that it 'resembled blackface'.

The brand sparked outrage with the design, and following complaints online they have issued a statement over the design. "We consider diversity to be a fundamental value to be fully upheld, respected, and at the forefront of every decision we make," the statement read.

View image on Twitter

The black "balaclava jumper" from Gucci's autumn/winter 2018 collection, which was being sold for £700, covered the bottom half of the face and featured a mouth cut-out outlined in red.

After pictures of the jumper appeared online, many Twitter users claimed the style was offensive as it resembled racist blackface stereotypes.

One person wrote: "Gucci made a very racist sweater. I still can't figure out why they thought this was ok?!"

Another questioned: "Why is it impossible for these labels to be fashionable without oppressing minorities?"

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Gucci is officially the most popular brand again

Gucci’s world domination continues. In the latest instalment of The Lyst Index, a quarterly report that analyses the online shopping behaviour of more than 5 million shoppers searching, browsing and buying fashion across 12,000 designers and stores online, the brand has taken the crown back from Off-White, and is officially the number one label that consumers engage with once more.

To put this into context, over 6 million shoppers browsed online for a Gucci bag, belt or shoe between October and December 2018. The two Gucci accessories that topped the top 10 product list amassed twice as many orders as the other eight products combined. The hottest accessory of all, however, was not one of Alessandro Michele’s ornate handbag designs, but the Soho Disco bag, which launched in 2014. The second, a Gucci logo belt, also suggests that customers have been playing it safe when investing in luxury goods this season.

Off-White and Balenciaga come in at second and third place respectively on the most-buzzed about brand list. "The Ten" collection by Nike x Off-White was the hottest label collaboration of 2018, as Virgil Abloh proved to be the perennial hype master once more. Balenciaga, meanwhile, saw an upspike in brand interest owing to that Michelle Obama holographic glitter boot moment, and Cardi B's endorsement of "those Balenciagas, the one that look like socks".

Good news for Moncler, whose Genius diffusion line paid off and projected the brand up 12 places into fourth position. Fendi also climbed four places to number five, in part down to its Fila collaboration and double F logo, which was much coveted by street-stylers. The hype around what Riccardo Tisci’s vision as chief creative officer of Burberry would look like, and his introduction of monthly product drops on social media, also catapulted the label up four places to enter the Lyst Index at number 10. Versace, Stone Island, Vetements and Valentino rounded up the top 10 at sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth position, respectively.

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How Dapper Dan Gave Harlem the Gucci Experience

‘You better watch out, you’re going to leave this place with a spring in your step,’ Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Day says as a waitress brings out family style size platters of cornbread, grits, mac n cheese, collard greens and fried chicken and waffles.

We’re in Sylvia’s, the famous Harlem landmark and world’s most popular soul food restaurant, which sits in the heart of the neighbourhood’s historical district, right down the street from the brownstone I lived in before moving to London.

The man most famously known as Dapper Dan is hosting a small international group that includes museum owners and curators from South Africa and Berlin, and a very important client from Japan — in other words, people who don’t eat grits. ‘Ah! It’s like polenta!’ a Gucci employee from Milan says excitedly after the first bite

We’re on a special weekend-long experience of sightseeing and storytelling hosted by Day, the iconic designer who this week announced a new limited edition book, Dapper Dan’s Harlem, published by his collaborator, Gucci, and shot by filmmaker and photographer Ari Marcopoulos.

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15 of the most talked about fashion moments of 2018

We know what you’re thinking. Can 2018 really be over already? The answer to that question, dear reader, is well… yes – and tbh, we’re not exactly sure what happened either. One thing we do know, though, is that it was a pretty massive year for fashion.

Between endless games of musical chairs, as the likes of Kim, Virgil, and Riccardo swapped and switched from house to house, there was a series of huge debuts, provocative moments of protest both on the runway and off, and more than a few viral moments that #broketheinternet (or at least came close to doing so).

We witnessed designers explore what the human race will look like 1000 years in the future, saw the dawn of a new age, as AI influencers and CGI models rose up and demanded to be noticed, and watched as the industry seemingly finally woke up to issues surrounding sustainability. 
With all that in mind, we’re here to remind you of some of the biggest moments of the last year. Who knows what 2019’s going to bring...

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Gucci's Cruise 2019 show was inspired by a 'rave in a cemetery'

The runway was on fire, literally

Gucci is no stranger to defying conventions but if you thought autumn/winter 2018’s offering of severed heads, extra eyeballs and baby dragons couldn’t be topped you’d better think again because this time round Alessandro Michele’s vision extended to the inevitability of death – church bells, skeletons, graveyards et al.

Following in the footsteps of Dior and Louis Vuitton, the design house became the third big name to show its Cruise 2019 collection in France, transporting in excess of 400 guests to the Provençal city of Arles.

But, instead of opting for yet another predictable runway setting, the likes of Saoirse Ronan, A$AP Rocky, Salma Hayek and Christian Lacroix were seated in an ancient Roman cemetery.

Perhaps the most unpredictable place for a fashion show, Michele’s choice of location was no accident. It was merely a macabre backdrop for an even more morbid collection.

“The inspiration is an ossuary, the crypts of the cardinals, of the monks in the 15th century, and the precious decorations,” Gucci quoted Michele on Instagram.

“This idea is that everything that is linked to the afterlife is accompanied by something of maximum beauty.

“It’s the idea of death as fascination.”

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Adidas, Supreme and Gucci are top brands with young people

Teens are flocking to streetwear labels — and running from brands that have not embraced the trend, according to survey by Piper Jaffray.

Demand for clothes and shoes with a “street” aesthetic soared up the investment bank’s semiannual list of brands teens listed as their favourite in a survey of 6,000 young consumers. Adidas cracked the top 10 for the first time among teens whose household had an average income of about $100,000, while Supreme rose from 10th place last fall to 7th in the latest survey. Vans saw the biggest gains in the footwear category, from the preferred choice of 9 percent of teens a year ago to 16 percent in the spring survey.

Streetwear’s rise came at Nike’s expense. The company remained the most popular apparel brand, but was picked by just 23 percent of teens, down from 31 percent a year ago.

“Both Vans and Adidas have this ‘open-source’ platform where they allow pop culture to help guide and influence how they are positioned with the consumer today,” said Erinn Murphy, senior research analyst at Piper Jaffray and co-author of the report. “Having a very collaborative environment when it comes to the softer side of brands is very important. Both of those brands were open to that, whereas Nike has historically been a performance-led company.”

Brands taking a reinvented approach to their 1990s archives — the era of logo mania — are also appealing to teens, Murphy said. Gucci entered the top 10 in the latest survey, while lower-priced brands that heavily feature their logos, including Tommy Hilfiger and Champion, have also gained.

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Gucci going fur free

Gucci is going fur-free.

Marco Bizzarri, president and CEO of Gucci, announced Wednesday at the annual Kering Talk at London College of Fashion that the Italian fashion house is going to stop producing fur. Gucci joins the Fur Free Alliance in eliminating animal fur from the spring 2018 collection and onwards.

Gucci's fur-free decision is part of the company's new 10-year "Culture of Purpose" sustainability plan, which also includes the house's commitment to contribute 1 million euros as a founding partner of UNICEF's Girls' Empowerment Initiative. The announcement falls on the same day as International Day of the Girl.

"Our new 10-year 'Culture of Purpose' sustainability plan has three principal focuses: the Environment, Humanity and New Models," stated Bizzarri, who adds that the plan demonstrates the company's "absolute commitment to making sustainability an intrinsic part of our business."

Bizzarri also noted that the plan is a vision he shares with creative director Alessandro Michele, stating, “In selecting a new creative director I wanted to find someone who shared a belief in the importance of the same values. I sensed that immediately on meeting Alessandro for the first time. Together, by committing to a culture of purpose, taking responsibility and encouraging respect, inclusivity and empowerment, we want to create the necessary conditions for a progressive approach to sustainability."

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Balenciaga replaces Gucci as world's hottest fashion brand

Spanish fashion brand Balenciaga has been named as the hottest brand in fashion, jumping two places and stealing Gucci’s crown.

A deep analysis of 4.5 million data points - including sales, search and consumer perception - five million products and 12,000 brands were ranked by fashion sites Business of Fashion and Lyst.

Gucci fell off the top spot but only dropped one place - but things look good long-term for the brand; it recently launched a home furnishings line and has announced a collaboration with Dapper Dan. 
Balenciaga turned a car mat into a £1,795 skirt
Perhaps the most surprising shift is the the jump by Virgil Abloh’s Off-White from 34th place to third place - it takes the place of Kanye West’s Yeezy brand, which has now fallen out of the top 10.

Abloh is known for elevating streetwear by using high-end production values, creating clothes which are aimed squarely at well-heeled millennials and Gen-Z consumers.

It’s working; last year Abloh said its business has experienced triple-digit growth year on year.

The Top 10

Balenciaga
Gucci
Off-White
Vetements
Givenchy
Valentino
Saint Laurent
Stone Island
Moncler
Raf Simmons
The biggest boost to business was a recent collaboration with Nike, in which he reimagined 10 classic sneaker models including the Air Jordan 1 and Air Max 90.


Generation Z - the younger generation that’s arrived after millennials - are helping to boost the industry in high-end streetwear.

They grew up in the era of hype culture and product drops, and will only get richer as they get older.

An upcoming collaboration with Supreme helped Stone Island jump 33 places this quarter.

Gucci has banned fur – but can high fashion ever be ethical?
Drake’s extensive collection of Stone Island clothing probably helped, too.

That’s one example of the increasing influence of rappers, strengthening the marriage between fashion and rap which was first consummated in the 1980s.

Rappers are becoming brand ambassadors, and A$AP Rocky has appeared in Dior Homme campaigns, Kendrick Lamar has fronted Calvin Klein ads, and Pharrell now co-owns G-Star Raw.

Some, meanwhile, cut out the middle-man and create their own brands; Kanye West’s Yeezy collaboration is one of the most in-demand shoe brands in the world.

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When does cultural inspiration become appropriation in the fashion world?

Gwen Stefani

Years before cultural appropriation became the buzzword it is today, pop sensation Gwen Stefani debuted her controversial single Harajuku Girls. Inspired by Japanese street fashion, the song featured backup dancers dressed as Harajuku girls, who doted on her from behind but never spoke in public. While critics panned it as blatant cultural appropriation, Stefani called it cultural appreciation.

The debate brought into the mainstream by the No Doubt hitmaker over a decade ago still rages on today. Journalists are no longer the lone authority; Twitter, Instagram and Facebook users make or break the controversy around any subject today.

London-based independent exhibition curator, Tory Turk, agrees. “The reason why the subject of ‘cultural appropriation’ in fashion could be seen as more problematic is because the jury has changed. The social media crowd can decide whether it’s cultural appropriation or cultural inspiration, and ultimately decide whether it is distasteful or not.”

Designer John Galliano, in his 20 years at Dior, famously showcased collections such as “A Voyage on the Diorient Express, or the Story of the Princess Pocahontas” in 1998, which featured native American attire, and Japanese and tribal pieces. There was little outrage.

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