Tuesday, 21 December 2021

Part 2: Dressed to Kill: The Best Looks From 'House of Gucci'.

 Last week saw Part 1 of the best looks from Ridley Scott's much anticipated release of 'House of Gucci'. The film stars Lady Gaga and Adam Driver as Patrizia and Maurizio Gucci, the husband murdered by his wife set in the glamorous world of 80s high end fashion. The film is, as to be expected considering the subject matter, a luxury fashion feast. Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri reportedly gave the movie’s production team “total creative freedom” when constructing the costumes. From sea blue sequin halterneck disco jumpsuits to that chunky cream fisherman's turtleneck sweater worn on the ski slopes, I've rounded up the best fashion moments from the movie. 


8) In Head-to-Toe Gucci in NYC


Besides a belt here and a scarf there, this is the first time we see Patrizia leaning in to the Gucci logo. We also rarely see her wearing trousers unless she’s at home in jeans, so this tunic-and-trouser moment is particularly special. Styled with a brown fur coat, leather gloves and the iconic Jackie bag (named after First Lady Jackie Kennedy), she looks every bit the kind of woman ready to take over Gucci, one way or another.

From the staple bag that draws on the Italian fashion houses’ red and green colour palette to the fur coat effortlessly placed on Patrizia's scheming shoulders, this is one of the most resonant fashion moments in House of Gucci thus far. Gaga’s Reggiani truly comes into her own, embracing the Gucci name and its monogrammed pieces. In this outfit, Reggiani worships at the altar of the renowned brand.

 It is in this outfit that she discovers the world of fakes. She is shocked to discover that her housekeeper is carrying a Gucci bamboo handle knock-off. As Patrizia wanders from Olympic Tower down to Canal Street to see the dupes in person, her full-on logomania further enhances the disconnect, as well as the nearly indiscernible likeness between real and faux. (Or "replicas," as Aldo dismisses the issue.)

According to Yates, the outfit's purpose was "Basically LG's philosophy — and I completely agreed with her — was that she should be wearing the original Gucci logo in order to show up the cheapness of the mugs, the ugliness of the belts," says Yates. "The whole thing was just a raw juxtaposition." 

9) In Pink & Black Polka Dots



Patrizia's pink and black polka dot Yves Saint Laurent dress, mined from luxury vintage house Tirelli Costume in Rome, (above), which she wears to meet and manipulate the eccentric Paolo Gucci in his own atelier. The Lollobrigida style 80s dress was also selected method-style for the scene, in which Gaga also ad-libs the now-famous line: "Father, son and house of Gucci."  

"She just took it off the rail and just said, 'This is what I'm going to see Paolo in,'" says Yates, who accessorised it with a double-G logo belt.

This is a silhouette we see Patrizia in often: Long sleeves, strong shoulders and a pencil skirt or fitted dress. It’s a pretty standard look for the time period, but she makes it her own with cleavage-baring necklines, belts (like this Gucci one) to cinch her waist, bold patterns and of course, lots of flashy jewellery. Out of all the looks I loved, this one could be argued as the most classically Patrizia. Ridley Scott said he did not want to go down the Dynasty route with the outfits. However, the outfit works in this scene as Patrizia is sneaking into Paolo's atelier to convince him to go ahead with his collection. It directly mirrors Paolo's own gaudiness, highlighting the lengths Patrizia is willing to go to get what she wants - even putting on an act to convince her husband's cousin. Patricia is a master manipulator - down to the finest detail.


10) In Purple With a Mink Stole


Reggiani famously once said “It is better to cry in a Rolls-Royce than be happy on a bicycle,” and this is a sentiment Gaga embodies in her vintage get-up. Dressed in a bold purple dress that boasts a hand-painted effect, Gaga embodied the glamour of the 80s as she filmed this scene with her on screen husband Maurizio and his cousin Paolo in the streets of Rome. The garment was brought to new levels of luxury, thanks to the added Gucci accessories consisting of a navy silk scarf, which Patrizia gracefully drapes over her head, and a pebbled black leather bag emblazoned with the old Gucci logo. Ever the maximalist, Reggiani needed another material—so the look was topped with a mink fur covering for an added touch of elegance.

The outfit has an extra layer of meaning however. In this scene, Maurizio’s cousin, Paolo, confronts the not-so-happy couple about their wrongdoings - namely Patricia and Maurizio's plan to oust the rest of the Gucci's from the family business. When the betrayal is at last revealed, the familial confrontation is a melodramatic display of feeble masculinity bending to feminine strength. While Maurizio looks distressed, Patrizia looks glamorous as ever. After securing her position at the top of the Gucci empire alongside her husband, Patrizia appears to us and Paolo as a (somewhat wicked) queen in regal purple, a colour long associated with nobility and royal exclusivity. Along with her sky-high stilettos and a luscious mink stole, the look further reinforces that in terms of control, he is out and she is in.  

 11) In Flaming Hot Ski Attire in St. Moritz



This was another red-hot St. Moritz moment, featuring a skin-tight ski suit and matching Christian Dior red goggles. Of course, still accessorised to the hilt with fur and some lavish gemstone earrings. In this scene, Patrizia is trying her best to intimidate Maurizio’s past schoolmate and new mistress Paola,  and her fiery red outfit and dramatic glamour are intended to be in direct contrast to Paola’s no-makeup makeup and breezy blonde looks. It is here that she mutters the immortal line while sipping espresso, 'I don't consider myself to be a particularly ethical person, but I am fair.'

The line between glam and gaudy is a fine one however. Compared to Maurizio's new lover, Patrizia is a fire engine of gaudy fashions piled on top of a jealous attitude. While Gaga does look spectacular in the red ski suit, there's a whiff of desperation to the costume. Throughout the movie, no matter how opulent her sartorial choices may be, Patrizia always wears her clothes and not the other way around. In this instance, though, her ski outfit overwhelms Maurizio's soon-to-be ex-wife – a sad reflection of spousal rejection and emotional discomfort.

12) Paolo Gucci in Pink


Paolo Gucci is portrayed as a somewhat comically tragic figure in House of Gucci and his gloriously tasteless suits reflect this. His costumes are in the film are made by the Attolini Brothers. In the above scene Patricia plots up at his atelier in an attempt to convince him to go ahead with his own collection. She matches his own gaudiness with her own, in pink Alexis Colby polka dots. 

Of all the Gucci men, it is Paolo who gets to wear all the colour. According to production crew member Marco Alzari, 'The crazy colours were all for Paolo because he was kind of the funky person in the family. And the most conservative colours were for the Gucci gentlemen: Maurizio, Aldo and Rodolfo, because they were the stone parts of the family. Janty had all classical suits made for them, and all those colours were opposite in colour to Paolo.' Paolo's suits are so extreme, his other pink suit is also worth a mention. The pink elephant corduroy suit was designed by Yates herself as the wait from Naples for the Atolini Brothers suits required some interim action on her part.

'I asked Costume del Arte to make a couple in the interim, which Jared could wear early on. I asked them for a pink elephant cord Norfolk jacket, which he ended up wearing quite prominently! So it's actually a suit of my design, I'm afraid to say!” 

“We went very over the top with Jared's wardrobe. His character Paolo was one of the worst dressed men I’d ever googled, he’d wear silver lurex shirts under his tuxedo! The looks are really appalling, the Atollini Crothers told me that he is ‘the dandy’s dandy’, as a result, Jared Leto gets some of the most fun outfits in the movie.

13) Turtleneck and Blazer (On Point Like a Laser ref. (@yourpal_austin) and That Burberry Trench


 Ah, the eponymous turtleneck and blazer, beautifully committed to a song that went viral on Tiktok this year by @yourpal_austin. The man from the Milk Tray ads, James Bond, Mark Wright (ok strike the last one) all fond purveyors of the look that is so cheesy that it's gone full circle and become hipster cool. It's in a turtleneck and blazer that Adam Driver evokes the suave sophistication of the Gucci heir when walking to meet his beloved in Lake Como, Italy. The navy jacket, decorated with gold buttons (not seen in the above photo), symbolise the inherent elegance of Maurizio Gucci as they reflect the summer light in the Italian town. Paired with a rectangular timepiece of the same bright hue, it’s clear that Driver is well-suited (literally) and booted for the part of the Gucci golden boy as he sweeps Patrizia off her feet (again literally).


Patrizia is no fashion-slouch in the scene either. She wears a Burberry trench coat - suggested by Gaga, and paired with some rather conservative Gucci heeled loafers. The look is meant to highlight her innocence and naivety at the beginning, according to Yates.Although the mac is a gorgeous piece, it's what she's hiding underneath it that's interesting. Her micro mini dress which reveals her backside as she bends over to kiss her date, suggests that what's underneath might not be so innocent after all.





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