Favourite Outfits From 'House of Gucci' and How They Drive the Narrative

Director Ridley Scott's latest cinematic offering is the fashion spectacular 'House of Gucci'. It is the story of the murder of Maurizio Gucci in the 1990s by his wife, Patrizia Reggiani, a woman from humble beginnings who marries into the famous Gucci family. The movie takes the angle of her unbridled ambition which begins to unravel the family legacy and triggers a reckless spiral of betrayal, decadence, revenge -- and ultimately mariticide. As this is the story of the family Gucci, it's no surprise that the film is a fashion catwalk from beginning to end awash with 80s and 90s Italian style - from the outright gaudy to the classic. Costume Designer, Janty Yates, had unprecedented access to the Gucci archives, but the movie is much more than a Gucci showcase. Pieces from Valentino, YSL, Ungaro, Alaia, Cesare Attolini, Lady Gaga's (who plays the scheming Reggiani) own pieces as well as her own designs all weave their way into the movies narrative, defining key moments and speaking volumes where words do not suffice. Here I pick some of my favourite outfits from the movie.

Maurizio Gucci in a polo-neck and blazer

Unfortunate protagonist and heir to the Gucci throne Maurizio Gucci is the straight man of the movie, and the fashion antagonist to his wife's often gaudy wardrobe. When romancing working class girl Patrizia at the beginning of the movie, posh-boy Maurizio, takes his future wife on a boat ride, wearing a totally unsuitable for the occasion, but very classy, polo neck and blazer. It might be a look that in recent years has been hijacked by the Only Way Is Essex boys - who love the polo-neck's unforgiving nature and stretch, in order to show off their 3 x a day gym workouts, but it's a look that's been going strong since the 60s. Maurizio's version of the combo is a bulkier version of the sweater in cream, and he wears it with a classic navy jacket with gold buttons.

Patrizia Gucci nee Reggiani at Aldo's ranch

On marrying into the Gucci family, Patricia is invited to uncle Aldo's ranch to meet the family's prized cows which are turned into the leather goods that make the Gucci clan's fortune. In a perfect example in how to dress for the occasion, Patricia opts for a beautiful sky blue shirt dress with full skirt and laser cut, scalloped hem. The gorgeous dress is cinched in at the waist with a tan leather belt and she accessorises with cowgirl style boots and a matching bag. Her up-do and make-up are pure Sophia Loren. This is probably my favourite outfit in the movie for it's simplicity and the beautiful shape of the dress. Gorgeous.

Paolo Gucci in his bird kimono

Comedic relief is provided by the flamboyant nephew, Paolo Gucci, whose bombast and grand plans to become a world renowned fashion designer are unfortunately not matched by the Gucci talent. Duped by the scheming Patricia and his cousin Maurizio who has fallen under Patrizia's spell, Paolo plots with Maurizio in a phone conversation to reveal his father's tax fraud in order to force his father to finally take him seriously. 'I could finally soar' Paolo exudes, 'like a pigeon'. The next scene cuts to Paolo tending his pigeons on the roof in the most beautiful orange and cream silk kimono with bird pattern. We then see Paolo on the phone to his father, decrying his need for freedom and how he will no longer be held back - all the while wearing his kimono with the flying birds.

Aldo Gucci in his squash whites

When Aldo is arrested at the gym whilst playing squash, he is of course, not in one of his power suits, but an all white gym outfit. The crisp white Lacoste polo shirt with matching white sweatbands for the wrist and head and his eye goggles, have something of the Richie Tenenbaum about them. Aldo is all in white as he is the proverbial lamb to the slaughter. As he is marched out of the gym by the FBI, it is they, not he who are in the power suits he normally favours. He does however, wear the coolest retro velour Fila zip up tracksuit top in red/navy. If you're going to have a very public arrest, make sure you're dressed your best for those pap snaps.

Maurizio Gucci in predatorial black Lacoste

After Aldo's arrest, we cut to the guilty duo -  Paolo and Maurizio who have just thrown their father\Uncle in prison. Maurizio, the instigator of the betrayal, is wearing a black version of his Uncle's white Lacoste polo shirt, reminding us who is predator and prey, although Maurizio wears his black polo shirt with classic chinos indicating he is still a geek at heart. Would he have made such machinations against his Uncle without Patrizia whispering in his ear? The suggestion is no. He is still the clean cut lawyer underneath it all, but the black to Aldo's white suggests he has, albeit temporarily, been turned over to the dark side.

Paolo Gucci, the deluded clown

When Paolo staggers down the Gucci runway, aghast at his father's sentencing, his outfit is a mish-mash of fantastical colours and patterns. He wears a black and green suit with a pink shirt and beige pattern tie and tops it all off with an orange flower in his lapel. It's a masterclass in clashing colours - a ridiculous outfits that somehow works. There is no way Paolo would have plotted against his father were he not persuaded by Maurizio, who in turn was convinced by Patrizia. The suggestion is Paolo, the clown, in his ridiculous outfits, is just not bright enough to plot against his own family to get what he wants, nor is he hateful enough. It slowly becomes clear, that the Gucci family are collapsing from within, and all roads lead back to Patrizia.  

Patrizia hits the ski slopes in prophetic blood-red

When Patrizia, Maurizio and Maurizio's soon to be lover (Paola Franchi) all meet up on the ski slopes as the strained couple holiday with Maurizio's upper class friends, the ski outfits the two female adversaries are wearing are an indicator of the power play going on on the slopes.

The top-to-toe blood-red outfit Patrizia wears, is not only a power move on her part, but also an indicator of the bloodshed to come. From the animal pelt hat on her head, to the brilliant red skintight jumpsuit she wears, Patrizia looks like she is wearing raw meat (Gaga's meat dress?) - this is not a woman to be messed with, and she gives this warning to Paola literally through her words, and figuratively through her chosen clothes.When we compare Patrizia's OTT ensemble, from her gaudy jewels to the red of the ski-suit and the fur, on her head, and contrast it with the snow white outfit, simple jewels and make up free face, of Maurizio's mistress, the opposing outfits speak volumes. Not only is Paula no match to the dangerous 'woman in red - she is - in her sacrificial white - another lamb to the slaughter, or at the very least, another hapless victim Patrizia will not allow to get in her way.

Paolo's decline

After realising he is responsible for his father's jailing 'It wasn't meant to go this far!', we next see the tragic Paolo Gucci as his father is released from jail, no longer living a life of luxury, but instead in a small flat, cluttered with dirty dishes and Paolo clearly in a state of mental decline. No longer dressing in the gaudy but expensive suits he has designed for himself (in fact all of Jared Leto's suits bar one in the movie were the work of famed Neapolitan tailors Cesare Attolini) but instead we see him bedecked in gaudy shell suits. Again, the clothes in the movie are indicators of a character's mental state. Here, the choice of outfit indicate Paolo's life, wealth and mental stability have all taken a massive downturn. When father and son finally reunite and reconcile, father Aldo, hugs his son and tells him 'You are an idiot, but you are my idiot.' Poor Paolo is the family fool. And his clown clothes reflect this.   

The lover

When Maurizio's new lover, Paola, is at his swanky new apartment it is now the 90s and Patrizia, along with her gaudy 80s outfits and tacky grandiosity are clearly a thing of the past. Paola is presented to us as a 90s  It-girl - uptown to Patrizia's downtown. Her style is all clean lines, understated (but still expensive) jewellery, tasteful make up and hair. Her slinky black dresses and blond blow out contrast sharply with Patrizia's dark bouffant and heavy 80s aesthetic. Even her make up is in stark contrast to Patrizia's - there is no kohl or sexy winged liner and Dynasty red lips. Paola is all about the no-make-up make up look. 

Paola's look in the movie is reminiscent of another tragic 90s female figure -  Jacqueline Bessette-Kennedy, who worked at and was muse to Calvin Klein and whose understated elegance inspired a legion of fans who coveted her and what they presumed was her privileged lifestyle. 

The couch

A special mention goes out to the red lips love seat. The couch that Maurizio jokes 'cost more than most people's apartment in Monte Carlo' and that Paola ought to be 'a little scared' of - shows a new side to Maurizio. He is no longer inexperienced and afraid of women as he was when he first met Patrizia at the beginning of the film - he is no longer the frightened wallflower. In fact, perhaps Patrizia has left a little bit of a mark on her ex-husband. No longer afraid of, or intimidated by his wealth or name as he was at the beginning of the film, here we see a more confident Maurizio. He is unafraid to spend his money (partly gained let's not forget, through the duplicity and help of Patrizia).  

Patrizia plots mariticide

While Maurizio and his new lover are spending the 90s living like minor royalty in their swanky upmarket apartment, we see Patrizia, in full-on revenge mode, knocking around on the wrong side of town. Maurizio may be ridiculously wealthy and may have got his hands a little dirty to get where he is, but the suggestion is that he is no Patrizia. When we next see Patrizia, she is with her gypsy friend and psychic, (played by Salma Hayek). They are both kitted out in skintight jeans and high heeled boots. Patricia wears a tough biker jacket and hasn't seemed to have adapted to the new decade and it's less ostentatious aesthetic. Her hair and make up still scream 80s and her outfit errs on the trashy side. This is the outfit she wears to negotiate with the hitmen she hires to murder her ex husband. Patrizia is a tough cookie from a poor background - certainly not afraid of the hitmen. She is a woman who  has clawed and fought her way up the social ladder and isn't willing to let go of what she has achieved without a fight. Even a Gucci with newly found confidence and years of generational wealth behind him is no match for the Patrizia's of the world. 

Conclusion

My ultimate view of the movie? The fashions are great, but ultimately, it's a two-dimensional, misogynistic and hackneyed portrayal of a woman who sees herself as having lost everything she has worked for. The 'crazy ex wife kills her husband and manages to single-handedly bring down the men of the Gucci clan, but ultimately destroys herself' reminds us of that other 80s 'crazy jealous woman trope  - Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction. It's a shame we never saw more from Patrizia's character than that of an unhinged gold-digger. Maybe there isn't more to her character? But one can't help but feel a little dissatisfied at Hollywood somehow blaming a woman for every man in an entire clan's downfall, and yet still not managing to flesh her out as a fully-fledged, rounded human being. Who was Patrizia Reggiani? You won't find out from watching 'House of Gucci'.

Clothes 8/10

Movie 5/10