In Wash Westmoreland’s “Colette,” the most famous female writer of the early 20th century –played by Keira Knightley– dressed the part in subversive fashion. Which provided the perfect opportunity for costume designer Andrea Flesch to express the forward-thinking, androgynous icon through her wardrobe.“I tried to design her style by her writings, by her inner thoughts, by her strong behavior and not caring what others think,” said Flesch. “So I put the image of masculinity in her wardrobe, even when it was sexy or feminine. Ties and very simple cuts and this black-and-white, which is the most elegant thing but very different. And I always gave her a tie pin with a meaning: her pet bulldog.”
Colette’s journey consisted of ghost writing her autobiographical coming-of-age story in the popular “Claudine” novels for husband/publisher Willy (Dominic West). But then after Willy sells off all ownership rights to the character, Colette leaves him and pens her own popular novels, finding her voice professionally and sexually, and becoming a proto-rock star.
The costume designer’s journey began by studying period photographs and the paintings of Jean-Georges Béraud, Fernand Toussaint, and Édouard Vuillard. This allowed her to reproduce some of Colette’s actual wardrobe with authentic fabrics. “I made my designs and searched all over the world to find them in original clothing,” said Flesch. “I wanted the colors and fabrics [true] to the time.
“They can no longer make these kinds of fabrics. And nobody can sew in that way, so detailed. Obviously I had to make new clothes for her, but even when I bought new fabrics, I was never OK with it. You don’t get the same feeling from the paintings of the era. I wanted to recreate the portrait paintings.”
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