Showing posts with label Covid19. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Covid19. Show all posts

Tuesday, 19 May 2020

WTF is happening in the fashion industry right now?

 

Dries Van Noten, SS2019

WTF is happening in the fashion industry right now?

Who’s gone bankrupt? Will fashion week ever return? And what does Jeff Bezos have to do with it all?


Fashion, you may have heard, is having an existential crisis. The coronavirus pandemic has left the industry on lockdown and facing an uncertain future: from fashion week and international travel (cancelled for the foreseeable), to the creation of collections, and how – or where – they’ll be sold. 


A lot of the issues and concerns that the pandemic has brought to light were preexisting: there’s just a second to stop and think about how to actually address them now. “This is an opportunity for all of us to look at our industry and look at our lives and to rethink our values and really think about the waste and the amount of consumption and access that we all, and I include myself, have all indulged in,” Anna Wintour said when discussing the state of the industry on Naomi Campbell’s YouTube channel. “We really need to rethink what this industry stands for.” 


And, so far people are trying to do just that – whether reexamining the role of influencers or trying to reduce carbon footprints. Here, we break down the most important takeaways from the chaos, but whether meaningful change will come from this pandemic remains very much TBC. 


Article here

Friday, 15 May 2020

Can Street Artists Survive a City in Lockdown?


 LONDON — One latest Friday, Nathan Bowen, a graffiti artist, was spray portray a boarded-up storefront in East London.


He was sporting a reflective vest, hoping any law enforcement officials who drove by would mistake him for a builder. But he nonetheless stood out. He was the one particular person on the entire avenue.


In March, the British authorities ordered everybody to remain inside, solely permitting folks out for every day train, to purchase meals or in the event that they had been an important employee. A month later, the lockdown remains to be in power.


Mr. Bowen was not an important employee, he acknowledged, however he mentioned he was offering a essential service, of types. “In this time, you want folks like me to exit,” he mentioned. “If nobody’s doing it, the town has no vibe.”


Before the pandemic, London teemed with avenue artists and performers: Buskers sang to commuters on the Underground, avenue magicians entertained vacationers, graffiti artists lined the town’s partitions.


But now — with a number of exceptions like Mr. Bowen — they’re all gone. What has occurred to the artists who used so as to add a lot life? And when the pandemic is over, will they be capable to return out?


Contents

1 The Artist

2 The Busker

3 The Magician


The Artist

The day that London went into lockdown, Mr. Bowen, 35, had a distinct response to the information from most others within the metropolis. He was strolling house from a pal’s home, he mentioned, when he noticed a storekeeper boarding up their home windows.


“I simply noticed that clean board and thought, ‘Yeah! There’s going to be so many alternatives to color,’” he mentioned.


“For me, this lockdown works in reverse,” he added. “Everyone’s left the town now, so it’s time for the underworld to come back by means of.”


The subsequent day, he went to the shop he’d seen and painted the boards with a development employee in a face masks, holding open his jacket to disclose a thank-you message for the National Health Service.


Mr. Bowen has been going out each couple of days since, he mentioned, and has been shocked to seek out that he gave the impression to be the one avenue artist out. “This lockdown’s a real take a look at,” Mr. Bowen mentioned. “You get all these graffiti guys happening about how they’re so anti-system, so radical, but this comes round and I haven’t seen one little bit of ‘graf.’ ”


Frontline, a British graffiti journal, has been urging its readers to “keep house, keep secure,” because the lockdown started. Even Banksy, maybe Britain’s most well-known avenue artist, has resisted the urge to exit and paint an attention-grabbing mural. In April, he posted an image on Instagram of some stencils he’d finished round his lavatory with the message, “My spouse hates it after I do business from home.”


Mr. Bowen mentioned that throughout the pandemic, he was solely portray work with supportive messages for the National Health Service, Britain’s beloved state well being care supplier. He needed to present hospital employees a lift at the moment, he mentioned, and he felt that items on different topics would open him as much as criticism for breaking the lockdown.


“This is correct avenue artwork, because it’s about communication — selling constructive messages that elevate the spirits,” he mentioned.


On a latest Friday afternoon, no person stopped Mr. Bowen as he painted. A handful of joggers ran previous, giving him a large berth. Two police automobiles drove previous.


The proprietor of the constructing did seem, Mr. Bowen mentioned, however slightly than chasing him off for property harm, the proprietor simply requested him so as to add some balls to the portray to mirror the actual fact the constructing had been, earlier than lockdown, an grownup ball pit.


It seemed like Mr. Bowen would end the piece and not using a hitch, till he encountered a standard drawback for avenue artists in London: It began to rain. Mr. Bowen swore and huddled beneath an awning along with his canine Klae (who additionally wore a reflective vest). He’d simply have to come back again and end it tomorrow, he mentioned.


The Busker

The final time that Kirsten McClure was busking in a London Underground station, in early March, she might really feel a change was coming.


“People had been sporting face masks for the primary time,” the 52-year-old singer-songwriter mentioned, in a phone interview. “People in face masks don’t provide you with a lot cash,” she added.


On March 21, Transport for London, the town’s public transportation company, banned all buskers from its community.


“I used to be actually shocked,” Ms. McClure mentioned. “I didn’t suppose they’d shut it off. I had this fantasy that I’d go and play all these good soothing tunes for medics going off shift. It was simply that bizarre denial everybody’s had.”


Ever since, Ms. McClure, who mentioned she often made half her revenue from busking, has been staying at house along with her husband and son. She was fortunate that she nonetheless had revenue from her second job as an illustrator, she mentioned. Some buskers she knew had began claiming unemployment advantages, she added.


She had seen one busker’s desperation at first hand when she went out to train and noticed an accordionist taking part in subsequent to a line of customers outdoors a grocery retailer. “It was pointless — completely pointless,” Ms. McClure mentioned, “But that’s the busker’s mentality: You go the place the footfall is.”


She threw the accordionist a coin, sustaining the really helpful distance of two meters, or about six toes, she mentioned. But the coin hit the bottom and rolled straight again to her. “I believed, ‘This is terrible! How do you truly give somebody cash with out getting into two meters?’”


Ms. McClure mentioned that she had thought-about busking on-line — acting on a livestream and asking for donations — however had felt that it will be troublesome to drum up sufficient consideration. Instead, she has began instructing herself violin in case she is compelled to put on a face masks when she returns to busking. “I believed it may be simpler to play instrumentals, than sing with a masks,” she mentioned.


She was optimistic, although, that the ban wouldn’t final lengthy. Over latest weeks, Transport for London, which regulates busking on the subway, has despatched its licensed buskers a number of emails telling them the best way to apply for emergency assist from charities and saying that the service hoped to have them again quickly, she mentioned. Busking was additionally a significant element of the town, “an indication of it being joyful and wholesome,” she added.


“It’s going to be actually good for folks to see buskers out once more, simply to take their thoughts off issues,” she mentioned. “That’s what we do: distract and cheer them up.”


Read more here

Tuesday, 12 May 2020

Everything Happening in Fashion Right Now


As COVID-19 turns the industry on its head, we round up all the latest developments in this ongoing list


Given the industry is built on globalisation, the movement of people, things, and ideas is fundamental to maintaining today’s fashion landscape. The past two months, however, have seen this structure ripped from underneath the industry’s feet, as the world has gradually entered a near-total lockdown as a result of coronavirus. 


The global pandemic is having unprecedented effects on everyone, and the fashion industry is no different. From student designers who are seeing their graduate shows cancelled, to retailers forced to close their shops; luxury brands calling off their blockbuster presentations to garment makers seeing their income taken away and factory workers having to carry out their jobs in unsafe conditions, the current situation has impacted everyone in the industry on a multitude of levels.


Though things continue to shift and shake on a daily basis, through all this the fashion world has stepped up to provide as much help as it can during this outbreak. It has transformed its factories into production facilities to create necessary items such as facemasks, it has donated money, and has put forward a number of online initiatives to help keep spirits up during isolation, and in the process, it has proven itself to be an essential player in the fight against coronavirus.  


With developing news about what is going on coming in thick and fast, understandably, it's pretty hard to keep up with everything. With that in mind, we have created an at-a-glance list detailing events happening in the industry, who's doing what, and how it continues to help in the fight against coronavirus, which we will continue to update from here on out. 


WHAT FASHION IS DOING TO HELP


Burberry is funding the vaccine research currently happening at Oxford University. The British luxury label has also converted its Yorkshire factory into a facility to make surgical masks, as well as non-surgical gowns and masks.


Chanel has announced its plan to start making masks, once given the greenlight by the French government. The French label has also donated €1.2 million to an emergency fund for the public hospital system in France, and has guaranteed it will be paying its workers eight weeks worth of salaries. 


Bootleg label Sports Banger is dropping weekly batches of its Nike x NHS mash-up t-shirts, with the entirety of the profits ploughed into providing meals for NHS workers at four London hospitals.


Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo have pledged to donate a total of $3 million towards coronavirus efforts being made around the world. 


In Ukraine, stylist Nadiia Shapoval reached out to the fashion community to help create equipment after a nurse was fired for refusing to enter a hospital room with a patient who had coronavirus, without being given the necessary protective clothing. Now, a team is producing 7,000 suits, with 200-300 disposable suits being made per-day. 


Students on the Fashion and Textiles course at Central Saint Martins are helping to create non-surgical scrubs for NHS staff. The patterns will be available for anyone to download through the CSM website imminently.


Hermès pledged to donate €20 million to public hospitals in Paris. The house also revealed it will maintain its basic salary for its employees.  


Mayhoola, the parent company of Balmain, will donate €1 million to the French charity La Fondation Hôpitaux de Paris - Hôpitaux de France. Supporting the Montfermeil and Delafontaine hospitals, each hospital will receive €400,000 to procure equipment and will also receive €100,000 to support the health and well-being of medical staff.


Dilara Findikoglu will be donating a percentage of the money made from the sales of her SS20 collection to the Artists and Freelancers Hardship Fund. She has also announced an upcoming series of online projects with a number of photographers.


JW Anderson will be donating 10 per cent of proceeds made from all of its online sales to akt, a charity supporting LGBTQ+ young people living in precarious conditions in the UK.


Nike is working closely with the Oregon Health & Science University to produce face shields for medical personnel. 


Louis Vuitton has repurposed its French workshops to make non-surgical face masks. With hundreds of artisans from the luxury label volunteering, the initiative hopes to battle COVID-19 and protect frontline health workers.


Christopher Kane is giving away free craft packs to make your own face masks from, in a bid to ensure people are not taking away supplies from medical personnel who desperately need them. Each pack is set to be made up using past-season fabrics. Email art.dept@christopherkane.com with your full name and UK postal address to receive one.


London-based designers Phoebe English, Holly Fulton, Bethany Williams and Cozette McCreery have formed the Emergency Designer Network, a group working with an ever-increasing number of small-scale UK manufacturers and designers to create much needed garments for medical workers fighting back against COVID-19. As well as calling on skilled sewers, sample machinists, and anyone who has a background in the garment industry to lend their time and effort to the initiative (get in touch here), the EDN is also welcoming donations large and small to help fund the purchase of materials. Visit their GoFundMe here.


Loewe is set to donate 100,000 surgical masks to the Spanish Red Cross, in addition to making non-surgical masks for volunteer workers and Loewe employees and their families. The luxury house also plans to donate a portion of the proceeds from its upcoming capsule collection to educational projects, starting with an initial gift of €500,000.


Bottega Veneta has announced it will provide funding for a number of scholarships to support the advancement of coronavirus-related research in Italy. With money also going to help medical professionals, Daniel Lee, the Creative Director of Bottega Veneta, said: “With these scholarships, we are able to contribute to securing the future of our global health by supporting their admirable and courageous work.”


Mulberry is producing re-usable PPE gowns in its Somerset factories for the University of Bristol and Weston NHS Foundation Trust. Hoping to produce over 8,000 gowns, elsewhere the label has raised over £75,000 through its Coronavirus Appeal, made in support of the National Emergencies Trust.


Gucci and Kering Foundation’s Chime For Change initiative has launched #StandWithWomen – a new campaign aimed at raising awareness and funds for non-profit organisations supporting women around the world. Announced by Chime For Change co-founder Salma Hayek, the project is a response to news that gender-based violence and domestic abuse levels have skyrocketed during the coronavirus pandemic. 


Read more here

Tuesday, 5 May 2020

How Will the Fashion Industry Be Affected by Covid19?


 Many sectors are reeling from the fallout of the COVID-19 pandemic as they stare into the abyss of the impending recession... and fashion has not been immune. But aside from economic factors, the industry is also facing lasting structural change. 

During the past decade, the fashion industry was an economic success story: consistent growth, the strong performance of the Asian market and the boom of online shopping set up a bright outlook. According to Euromonitor International, in 2019 the value of the global fashion retail market was $1.78 trillion, a jump of 14 percent on the previous year. 

Until the start of the pandemic, the sales forecast for 2020 looked promising. However, the COVID-19 crisis has dramatically affected the fashion industry worldwide – while many retailers are concerned about the sales figures, it is clear the wider sector faces significant structural changes, which will affect customers' behaviour, the fashion calendar and even people's style. 

Online domination

"We were already seeing a move to online. Online was by far the highest growth segment of the industry. And because people have been forced to an online world, that will accelerate," says Stephanie Phair, chief customer officer at Farfetch, an online luxury fashion retail platform. 

With shops closed around the world, consumers are moving to online. A strong online presence is key to brands' survival now and their success in the future.

Boom of sustainability

During the crisis, many customers have been shopping more consciously and thinking about ethical aspects of their shopping experience – a shift in consumer mindset expected to accelerated by the pandemic. "People are thinking a lot more around endorsing companies that have a mission, that have a purpose, that do good in the world," says Phair.

What is the future for fashion weeks?

Travel restrictions and social distancing rules have moved fashion weeks to a digital space for the foreseeable future. Online streaming of catwalk shows and  a "no-guests" policy might become a new normal for fashion capitals and their front-row "influencers."

Slower Fashion

The coronavirus pandemic has forced a rethink of some industry habits. 

"Brands and retailers are taking the opportunity to do some of the things that were being discussed before. Which is: should we be selling the right season in the right season? Should we be thinking about consolidating to fewer seasons and more of a capsule approach as opposed to having eight seasons in the year and having buyers come to eight different markets?" questions Phair

Will COVID-19 change the way we dress?

People are shopping for what they can wear right now, while many of them are still in lockdown. While activewear and loungewear are on trend, it is expected the pandemic could change the way we dress even when it is over. The Great Depression and World War II transformed people's wardrobes; COVID-19 unavoidably will become a new trendsetter, but it is up to designers to lead this change.

"The change will definitely happen," says Phair. "I think it's too early to know what that will look like. And I think the best people place for that are the designers themselves. They are taking this time to go back, to understand, to get all of the cultural references. And that's what tends to lead that change – the designers themselves absorbing what's going on."

Does the future of fashion look bright?

"This is obviously a terrible health crisis and is an economic crisis. But you hope that, out of that, there will be silver linings and positive impacts for the long term," says Phair.


Monday, 20 April 2020

How is the Fashion Industry Coping with Covid19?

 


As the lights dimmed, signaling the start of another Paris fashion week show, an editor discreetly sneezed. The crowd seated near her jumped, with some guests looking nothing less than aghast. Blame it on the temperamental weather and equally scandalous time tables – or, blame it on Covid-19.


The fashion crowd had just returned from Milan, not far from the region where Covid-19, better known as the coronavirus, had started to spread, making Italy the second country struck with the pandemic after China. As Milan – and in the following days the whole country – rapidly shut down, putting one of Europe’s largest nations under quarantine, the fashion industry was quick to take action. Armani and Moncler, among others, decided the show would go on, albeit audience-free.


Back in Paris, the general attitude and well-entrenched behavioral patterns changed profoundly. “The climate switched within minutes; the usual bise was replaced by a distant wave; meetings, projects, and shows were rapidly canceled and a state of panic grew,” recalls Lara Abdessalem, an agent and producer at talent agency Newcomers. At the entrance of Dries Van Noten, antibacterial gel and masks were handed out, the latter increasingly displayed on the front row. Editors from major publications in China were home-bound; maisons like Louis Vuitton and Chanel prohibited their US-based staff from flying to the shows. APC, Agnès B, as well as Chinese houses Masha Ma, Maison Mai, and Shiatzy Chen canceled their presentations, and the annual LVMH Prize meet and greet was called off. On a larger scale, these measures proved to be all but futile. On the first day of fashion week, the number of reported cases in the country was 14; barely a week later, it had risen to more than 500. In March, the number of confirmed cases stood at almost 60,000, with more than 5,000 dead.


Chanel has since postponed its Métiers d’Arts show, due to take place in Beijing, as did Burberry for an upcoming Shanghai runway, Armani in Dubai, and Versace for a secret, US-held cruise presentation. Hermès, Gucci, Ralph Lauren, Max Mara, and Prada all canceled upcoming shows and events in Paris and London, San Francisco, New York, Saint Petersburg, and Tokyo, respectively. The Met Gala has also been postponed indefinitely. As the pandemic rose to more than 340 000 cases around the globe, all forms of travel to and from most areas of the world has come to be seen as a potential threat.


Article here

Friday, 27 March 2020

How is the Fashion Industry Dealing With the Pandemic?

 


Twelfth Street was empty except for Kim Shui. The 29-year-old wore calligraphy-precise black eyeliner and a tiger-print cardigan she designed and sewed herself. She carried a few boxes—a donation of supplies being delivered to local hospitals, plus the last few shipments of clothes she could make before New York City shuts down. “Now what?” she laughed… but there was nobody on the usually packed block to answer her.


Instead, the downtown fashion darling beloved by Cardi B. and Kylie Jenner did what resourceful young women have always done when times get tough: She answered the question herself. “I figured it out,” she says from her studio apartment in Manhattan, where she—like millions of other city dwellers—has been ordered to stay home for the foreseeable future. “I’m making masks. I have a sewing machine, and some leftover fabric. I don’t have any elastic,” she say with a sigh, “but I figure I can take it from some of my own clothes for now, and then sew it back on later once I can go shopping for materials again… or even just get to my studio. Obviously, I had to shut it down. My workspace, I mean,” she says firmly. “Not my label. That’s definitely still going.”


How Can Fashion Move Forward?

Style is a lot like love: even when you try, you just can’t stop it. That’s because just like Beyoncé, fashion is a triple threat: it’s a billion-dollar industry, a vital and easily accessible art form, and—because everyone gets dressed in the morning—its goods are both necessary and universal. We all have to have them.


But though style is immutable, its influence can certainly get quieter. And with the havoc and heartbreak of COVID-19, the industry is halfway between a pause and a pivot. A 360-view shows both happening now, as independent labels like Christian Siriano and Cynthia Rowley, along with massive corporations like Gap, Coty, and LVMH, are making masks, hospital gowns, and hand sanitizer. Retail shops are shutting down while e-commerce sites are overloading—and in some cases crashing—from so many virtual orders. Face masks (both the N-95 kind and the K-Beauty pore clearers) are in high demand, and sweatpants—once a Seinfeld punchline and a Hype Boi staple—have become so essential, WWD reports sales have spiked 50 percent. At the same time, factory workers and retail employees are losing their jobs, often with no safety net. Stylists, photographers, and makeup and hair artists are currently without income. Textile production has stopped, and many cotton farmers and wool growers can’t plant and harvest.


In the midst of this push-and-pull, Harper’s Bazaar spoke with dozens of fashion folk about their fears, their future, and the small steps being taken right now that ensure style—like every other art form, and love too—survives.


Remote Work

Two days after I went into “self-isolation,” Jennifer Lopez called me.

It was for an interview scheduled a long time ago, in a galaxy far away… one where you could kiss someone without wondering about the death toll. “At some point, we always bounce back,” the Oscar-robbed icon says. “And so we need to use this time to get ready to come back even better... Nobody wanted this to happen, but if it has to be this way, now we can take advantage of the time and work to get better at what we do. But do that work from home.”


Read full article here