When does cultural inspiration become appropriation in the fashion world?

Gwen Stefani

Years before cultural appropriation became the buzzword it is today, pop sensation Gwen Stefani debuted her controversial single Harajuku Girls. Inspired by Japanese street fashion, the song featured backup dancers dressed as Harajuku girls, who doted on her from behind but never spoke in public. While critics panned it as blatant cultural appropriation, Stefani called it cultural appreciation.

The debate brought into the mainstream by the No Doubt hitmaker over a decade ago still rages on today. Journalists are no longer the lone authority; Twitter, Instagram and Facebook users make or break the controversy around any subject today.

London-based independent exhibition curator, Tory Turk, agrees. “The reason why the subject of ‘cultural appropriation’ in fashion could be seen as more problematic is because the jury has changed. The social media crowd can decide whether it’s cultural appropriation or cultural inspiration, and ultimately decide whether it is distasteful or not.”

Designer John Galliano, in his 20 years at Dior, famously showcased collections such as “A Voyage on the Diorient Express, or the Story of the Princess Pocahontas” in 1998, which featured native American attire, and Japanese and tribal pieces. There was little outrage.

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