Blackkklansman Costume Designer Drew Inspiration From Female leaders of the Leaders of the Black Power Movement

Ron and Patrice

Spike Lee's latest — and Cannes Grand Prix winning — directorial effort, "BlacKkKlansman," tells the true story of Ron Stallworth, the first African American detective to join the Colorado Springs Police Department in the '70s. Based on his book, "Black Klansman: A Memoir," the near-incredible tale follows Stallworth (played by John David Washington) infiltrating and becoming a card-carrying member of the Ku Klux Klan.

While set in the '70s, the film's political commentary, exploration of social injustice, police brutality and portrayal of racial terrorism specific to the U.S.A. feels very 2018 — and that's the point. "The biggest thing we wanted was to put stuff in the script, very strategically, so it would not be a period piece," the legendary director told reporters at Cannes in May, via the Los Angeles Times. (True to Lee's talents and vision, the movie is also a thrilling — and, at times, bitingly and satirically funny — detective adventure.)

But the production itself, including the rich palette of costumes by Marci Rodgers, stayed meticulously authentic to the time period, including Ron's first undercover assignment attending a speech by Kwame Ture (formerly Stokely Carmichael and played by Corey Hawkins). On his way into the gathering, Ron meets and is understandably impressed by  Colorado College Black Student Union leader Patrice Dumas (Laura Harrier). The moving speech was inspired by real life talks given by the civil rights activist and former Black Panther leader (and beautifully shot by cinematographer Chayse Irvin, who also worked on part of Beyoncé's "Lemonade"). 

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How the Black Panthers influenced today's music and fashion

From Kendrick Lamar’s performance at the 58th Grammys to Beyoncé’s “Formation” video, we’ve seen a resurgence of the ideas championed by the Black Panther Party in popular culture. The timing isn’t coincidental, given the rise of what many have described as a second wave of activism surrounding the disparities faced by communities of color in the United States.

Now, on the heels of Beyoncé invoking the Panthers’ legacy at Super Bowl 50, comes Stanley Nelson Jr’s documentary: Black Panthers: Vanguard of the Revolution, currently streaming on PBS. Nelson showcases the pivotal role the Panthers played in leading many revolutionary social movements of the ’60s and ’70s.

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Not only did they influence the rise of anti-capitalist and anti-war movements, they also called for social awareness and gender equality, among other things. However, the Panthers were not only heavily influential in the political sphere, they also impacted the art and culture of the era, and the revolutionary vibrations of their powerful rhetoric were felt well into the ’90s, and beyond.

Many of us will be familiar with the visual cliche of ’70s permed DJs, complete with oversized aviators and exaggerated lapels. This image is so intrinsically connected with ’70s culture we rarely question its actual origins. What caused people from every conceivable background to adopt afros, for instance? (Even if it meant getting a chemical perm to achieve the look.) Why did people suddenly want to cover half of their faces with dark sunglasses?


To understand this, one has to realize that the culture of the ’70s, from fashion to music, was intimately tied to the radical social movements of the time. There was an incredible amount of student backlash against the disastrous Vietnam War, which brought with it a rise in anti-capitalist sentiments and increased sympathy for causes like the Civil Rights movement and women’s rights movements. Essentially, the status quo was no longer acceptable to the nation’s youth.

So what is the relationship between the social movements of the ’60s and ’70s and sartorial hallmarks often associated with them?

One of the many connecting links is the Black Panther Party. As a black liberation and black power movement, the Panthers espoused, among other things, an ideology that embraced and celebrated non-Eurocentric standards of beauty. “Black is beautiful” became a rallying cry as the Panthers actively resisted the Europeanization of beauty standards and encouraged their supporters to wear their hair in natural styles and love the skin they were in.

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