The genuine article: how to buy a vintage designer bag

 Chanel’s 2.55 bag and Hermès’s Kelly and Birkin models are three of the world’s most coveted designer handbags owing to their expert craftsmanship and exclusivity. Investing in one of these luxury accessories via a vintage seller is not only a way of securing a piece of fashion history to pass down to future generations, but also of championing a sustainable approach to shopping – one that will ultimately help fashion advance towards a greener future.

“Fashion shouldn’t feel disposable,” British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful said of his decision to dress Taylor Swift in archive Chanel for the January 2020 cover. “The best clothes can be worn time and time again and have the quality of both design and craftsmanship to ensure their staying power.” Indeed, as Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion passes, style remains.”

Here, British Vogue speaks to seven vintage experts from consignment websites, bricks-and-mortar treasure troves for the retro obsessed, and luxury e-tailers to find out how to source an authentic designer bag to buy now and wear forever.

Trust your source

“The first, and arguably the most important, thing to consider when purchasing a designer vintage piece is to evaluate the source,” says Seth Weisser, co-founder and CEO of What Goes Around Comes Around, which has been one of New York’s premiere purveyors of vintage for almost three decades. “Do your research on the seller or company you’re buying from and be wary of marketplaces where you don’t have access to information on the seller. The peace of mind you have when you shop with a trusted source makes the process so much more enjoyable and eliminates the stress of having to attempt to authenticate a piece on your own.”

Research the brand

“Each brand has unique codes which permit a buyer to verify the authenticity,” says Sophie Hersan, co-founder and fashion director of fashion consignment platform Vestiaire Collective. “For example, Hermès uses famous stitches called ‘piqûres sellier’, which are hand sewn by craftsmen. The irregularities or imperfections are recognisable compared to machine work.”

“Most high-end designer brands, like Louis Vuitton and Gucci, will include a date code or serial number somewhere within the bag,” explains Oliver Purnell, the owner of Depop shop @oliversarchive. “Usually they’re quite hard to find within the inner lining. A lot of counterfeit vintage Fendi SAS model bags are currently in circulation, none of which have serial numbers.”

Google is your friend for these certification steps. “Compare care labels to online images of real versions to identify any inconsistencies and red flags,” advises Sharon Wolter-Ferguson, founder and CEO of Hardly Ever Worn It (HEWI).

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Are Birkins a better investment than gold?

Birking Himalaya bag

Christie’s has just sold a Hermès Birkin bag for £155,000 will come as a vulgar surprise to those who think spending more than £19.99 on a single fashion item is completely cuckoo. To the outsider, fashion’s built-in obsolescence makes the idea of investing in anything seem misplaced since, thanks to its six-month renewal cycle, no sooner is your purchase “in” than it is “out” again. But if a fool and her money are soon parted, the adage doesn’t apply to Hermès.

Like art, vintage cars and fine jewellery, a Hermès bag could turn out to be a wise investment.

That the blue crocodile Birkin, embellished with white gold and diamonds, attracted a worldwide bidding frenzy will come as no surprise to any seasoned fashion-watcher. In the pantheon of designer handbags, nothing tops the desirability of Hermès, the luxury status of which has been unassailable ever since Grace Kelly popularised the brand in the 1950s. While the patronage of Jane Birkin, Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham – once said to have owned more than 100 Birkins – has ensured demand remains buoyant, Hermès’s true covetability lies in its craftsmanship. Each bag is made by a single, highly skilled artisan, and takes upwards of 18 hours to complete. Only the most expensive skins and leathers are ever used.

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