A Brief History of Trends that Originated in Black Communities.

 Moving forwards with support for the BLM movement, it is vital that white allies commit to ongoing reparations, and fundamentally the fashion industry as a whole elevates and supports black-owned businesses and creators, whilst also holding problematic companies or individuals – *coughs Anna Wintour* – accountable. 

Historically, the relationship between the fashion industry and black culture has always been complex. We must remember that the fashion industry is built on the subjugation of black and brown bodies, established by a structural form of racism rooted in a fraught colonial past. Many fashion houses, brands and celebrities seem only too happy to appropriate, whitewash and profit off of black culture without respectfully acknowledging their history, striving to diversify and structurally transform their company nor supporting any POC staff they may already have. 

Most recently, big names like Stephen Gan, editor of V Magazine, have been called out by industry watchdog Diet Prada for deeply culturally insensitive costumes and racism in the workplace amongst an array of other issues such as misogyny and homophobia. Comme des Garcons also became subject to outrage and issued an apology after they sent white models down the runway wearing cornrow wigs during their Autumn/Winter 2020 Menswear show, despite Balmain and Marc Jacobs making similar hair faux-pas in 2017 and receiving harsh backlash online. 

The historical and cultural importance of black culture and talent and its monumental influence in fashion today must be acknowledged. With this being said, it’s also extremely important to still recognise the inequities of the acceptance of black style and culture, and to continually support POCs who have been marginalized, misrepresented or stereotyped by the fashion world. This list celebrates and gives some context to prominent fashion trends we have the black community to thank for.

NAILS

Dating all the way back to 3000 BC, Egyptian women were thought to have worn nail extensions created from ivory, gold and bone and in the 14th Century Chinese and Egyptian royals such as Cleopatra and Queen Neferti were believed to have painted their finger and toenails red as a symbol of status. Acrylic nails were created in the US in 1950 and became popular with Hollywood stars. However, the first black woman to be on the cover of Vogue, African-American model Donyale Luna most notably wore them on the cover of Twen Magazine in 1966. Acrylic nails then appeared on the salon scene in the 1970s and became associated with black 70s Disco stars such as Diana Ross and Donna Summers who wore colourful square tipped nail designs. 

During the 1980s black American track and field athlete Florence Griffith Joyner (aka Flo Jo) – considered the fastest woman of all time – became notorious not only for her incredible record-breaking performances but for competing with iconic flamboyant nails. She is seen sporting these long acrylic nail designs throughout her career on the track and also on the cover of Sports Illustrated in 1988 the year she made the world records for both 100m and 200m which still have yet to be broken! Vibrant long acrylics were also a favourite of La Toya Jackson and Coko of the 80s New York R&B trio SWV.

Flo Jo

In the 1990s ornate acrylic nails were popularised during the rise of hip-hop and R&B culture, a look endorsed by black artists like Missy Elliott and Lil Kim with her infamous ‘money manicure’ created by talented black nail artist to the stars Bernadette Thompson (get to know). The dollar note inspired nail set is now permanently featured at The Museum of Modern Art and is the first set of nails to ever be displayed there (!). This popularisation in the 90s propelled the concept of ‘nail art’ into mainstream consciousness and laid the foundation of this huge trend that is still prevalent today.

TODAY

Contemporary acrylics and nail art as we see them today are considered an art form. Creative nails are everywhere from runways, to fashion magazines and bustling salons, and although not necessarily black conceived, we must remember black women have been instrumental in leading this cultural wave. However, despite the cultural and historical weight these nails carry within the black community, acrylics are still frequently labelled ‘tacky’, ‘cheap’ and ‘unprofessional’ when worn by a black woman. The use of these negative labels are entrenched with classism and misogyny, and are extremely harmful, contributing to wider stereotypes about black women in society and reinforcing systemic oppression. It’s important to be respectful as a non-POC when choosing to wear nails and please be aware that erasing black women’s history from this narrative of evolution of style is silencing.

If you are a non-black nail tech, consider purchasing your materials from black-owned businesses, work with and elevate black talent, think of ways you can offer your skills to amplify black voices and respectfully pay tribute to black icons/experiences. Sylvie Macmillan has a great resource of black-owned nail brands on her Instagram.

Here is a list of UK based independent black-owned nail businesses to purchase from, support and engage with: @sadiejnails, @yo_keshh, @naysap_, @arjenesisnails, @kaddyfromthewest, @imoannails, @tpfnails, @simmy_nailsandbeauty, @ooh.beauty.byj, @nailsatthecandibar, @sheadbeauty, @aiyananails, @xisnails, @im_pressd, @buffbarbristol, @nichole_wills, @leahhannahbeauty, @beautyby.eme, @lg_nailslondon, @nailsbyromeyann, @ezananailsandbeauty

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