The autumn/winter 2019 menswear shows were full of comebacks and firsts. Milan hosted blockbuster shows from Prada, Versace and even Dolce & Gabbana, treading carefully after last year’s China racism row. Paris was packed and cold, but saw universally successful debuts from Hedi Slimane at Celine, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy. Craig Green returned to the London schedule alongside Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, who had a plaid party in a warehouse, and A-Cold-Wall*, which put a doberman on the catwalk. Scarves were long, bags were big and for the first time in four seasons, tailoring triumphed over tracksuits. Here are the other trends we can expect to see next autumn.
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| A model backstage ahead of the John Lawrence Sullivan show during London |
Rare is the season in which leopard print is absent from womenswear … but menswear? It’s hardly a perennial. Yet this season it was, appearing in all shades and motifs, brash and textured. At John Lawrence Sullivan, it appeared on coats and bomber jackets in clear 70s prints. At Marni, it ran the gamut – from creepers and fluffy coats, to hats and wide-legged trousers, lending the whole collection a cartoonish edge. Neil Barrett put it on collars and Sacai doubled it up, but few expected to see a mod-style leopard-print coat in a quiet shade of gold. Some labels can change their spots, it seems.
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