From Alessandro Michele’s Gucci to Alexander McQueen, the most haunted fashion houses have long pulled on an old film ribbon to create their dark materials. With references from Rebecca (1940) to Rosemary’s Baby (1968) borrowed from a library of horror’s most legendary auteurs, The Shining-inspired twins have taken finale turns at Undercover (above), Hitchcock heroines have wandered hotel-corridor runways at Louis Vuitton, and McQueen’s entire spring/summer 1995 show paid homage to Tippi Hedren in Alfred Hitchcock’s thriller The Birds (1963).
This season, the scene is no less sinister. For spring/summer 2019, Gucci screened a film featuring “delusional, wild, fragmented plots” by two of the most famous names in 1960s Italian avant-garde theatre, Leo de Berardinis and Perla Peragallo, ahead of a collection dotted with references to A Clockwork Orange. Richard Quinn opened his London show to fake thunder and lightning, and there was a phantom thread at Rodarte (above), raising Tim Burton-style brides from the dead in an East Village graveyard. "It gave us what we like: atmosphere!” Rodarte’s co-designer Kate Mulleavy told Vogue.
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