Monday, 19 November 2018

No makeup and black and white costumes allows the women of 'The Favourite' to shine

Queen Anne addresses court
Early awards season, um, favorite, "The Favourite," is all about the ladies. Director Yorgos Lanthimos's latest film illuminates palace political intrigue and the complicated, if not dysfunctional relationships of gout-ridden Queen Anne, close friend and advisor Lady Sarah Churchill and palace newbie, Abigail Hill. The period piece stars Olivia Colman, Rachel Weisz and Emma Stone, respectively.
While "The Favourite" is set in early 18th-century England, there are a number of historically inaccurate flourishes, from the sharp (and at times expletive-laden) dialogue, to the costume, hair and makeup, starting with the black-and-white wardrobe. 

The early 18th century is rarely portrayed on film, which presented costume designer Sandy Powell with a few challenges, starting with limited rental options. Of course, the situation also offered opportunities for Powell to flex her three-time Oscar-winning skills. She created an overall palette of black and white for the three leads and the royal court. She had Lanthimos's inspirations in mind, including historically authentic imagery and period-incorrect references, like 17th Century Dutch paintings and Igmar Bergman's 1972 film "Cries and Whispers." Powell also performed her own historical research, looked to present-day fashion and referenced Peter Greenaway's 1982 period film "The Draughtman’s Contract," which holds sentimental value from early in her career.
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